Exercise: Curves

Curves are similar to diagonals because they cause a sense of movement and direction. Curves are very useful to direct the eye towards the subject in the picture.

Like in the first picture, we want to attract the interest on the red car because it gives the action to the image. So we use the curved road to direct the interest towards the main subject giving some pespective and depth to the picture at the same time.

 

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70-300 mm f/4-5,6
Focal length: 70 mm
Exposure: 1/250  f/11
ISO 800. No flash, no tripod.


In the second picture we have different curved objects that draw the shape of the objects so we can identify them as the same time as they help our eye to look around.



Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 55 mm
Exposure: 1/125  f/11
ISO 200. No flash, tripod used.

This is the Helsinki's Cathedral dome. The curves and the contrast between the blue sky and the white building makes the picture very powerful, which is emphasized by the low angle camera position.











Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 55 mm
Exposure: 1/640  f/11
ISO 400. No flash, no tripod.

This beautiful organ is inside the Helsinki Cathedral. I tried to use the arch as a frame as well as a way to get some extra light because the scene was a little dark and I forgot my tripod at home. I used a high ISO because i wanted an small aperture to ensure the whole scene was in focus, but I didn't want the ISO too high to avoid the digital noise. 












Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 18 mm
Exposure: 1/4  f/11
ISO 500. No flash, no tripod.

Exercise: Diagonals

Diagonals are ascending or descending lines so they add a dinamic look to the pictures because they draw a line to lead the eye through the frame. When diagonals intersect with other lines they suggest depth to the picture. They also give a sense of perspective which is emphasized with converging diagonals with a wide angle lens as shown in the third picture below (focal length: 18 mm).

As diagonals are lines they can help dividing the frame, or also framing a point in the picture. As we can see in the fist picture diagonals lead the attention to the small ship in order to the big one. If the three diagonal rope weren't there the small ship would be nearly imperceptible but the diagonals help us to look around the picture and we can notice the small boat more easily.

Here are some examples of diagonals. I've included another picture drawing these diagonals.








Camera body: Nikon d90 
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,4-5,6
Focal length: 36 mm
Exposure: 1/250  f/11
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.







Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,4-5,6
Focal length: 34 mm
Exposure: 1/250  f/11
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.






Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,4-5,6
Focal length: 18 mm
Exposure: 1/400  f/16
ISO 800. No flash, no tripod.









Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,4-5,6
Focal length: 24 mm
Exposure: 1/500  f/16
ISO 800. No flash, no tripod.

Exercise: Horizontal and Vertical Lines

I've chosen different subjects for this exercise such as urban landscape, nature, sculptures or sailing boats. There are plenty of images in our lives in which vertical and horizontal lines are included. So it isn't very difficult to find them; the hard work begins when you have to choose how to reflect them in the composition using different angles of view, different focal lengths... 

Here are some examples, starting with the horizontal lines:

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 35 mm
Exposure: 1/800 f/5,0
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.

This is a building detail. The HORIZONTAL lines are created by the window rows. The white windows contrasts with the red background and separate the image into different parts. It's been a tricky image because of the distortion caused by the low angle shot. 

The horizontal windows give a sensation of stability to the picture, like nothing happens in this place, as it were permanent.

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 32 mm
Exposure: 1/1600 f/11
ISO 640. No flash, no tripod.

There are also horizontal lines in landscapes as shown here. The trees in the back create an horizon between the lake and the sky. Here the horizon is placed in the lower third to cause a more dramatic sensation  with the sky. The horizon divides the picture in a dramatic part (the sky) and a calm and quiet part (the lake). There is also another horizontal line in the picture. This is an horizontal curve to be more specific and divides the sand and the water. This curve helps to lead the attention to the rocks and following toward the top you find the grey dramatic clouds.

I've used a small aperture to get a great depth of field and get in focus as much as possible in the picture, because I wanted to attract the attention to the whole image.


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 18 mm
Exposure: 1/1000 f/11
ISO 800. No flash, no tripod.

It is an image of the Moscow Theatre with its beautiful gardens in the front. The roof of the theatre draws an horizontal line which works also as the horizon between the building and the sky. In the front there's a low fence drawing another horizontal lines. There're more horizontal lines created by the separation between the garden squares. 

In this picture there're also two vertical lines leading the attention to the three brown doors in the middle of the frame. These lines give the picture a sense of depth and help to lead our eyes towards the centre of the image while we look around till we reach the doors.


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 34 mm
Exposure: 1/320 f/16
ISO 640. No flash, no tripod.

In this pictute the subject is the statue, so I've chosen its side view to give the picture a static appearance. I've also selected the horizontal framing to accentuate the calming stable impact.

I should have used a larger aperture to limit the depth of field and try to focus the statue and blur the background but I didn't have time to change the camera settings.

Verical lines are very helpful to give dinamism to the picture and help to lead the attention towards a concrete point we want to emphasize. Here are some examples:


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 36 mm
Exposure: 1/80 f/11
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.

Trees and in a more specific way, trunks are a good example of vertical lines because it's their nature; so they convey a growth feeling. In this case, I've decided to place a tree in the centre of the picture so I've made it to be cut in two halves and give the shot a symmetrical appearance (not totally but mainly). 

I've used a small aperture to get a high depth of field and to get the farest tree in focus.


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 26 mm
Exposure: 1/200 f/10
ISO 640. No flash, no tripod.

It's a detail of the Sibelius Monument in Helsinki. It's a stainless steel pipe sculpture and Ive managed to place myself below it and shoot upwards. The tricky part of the shot was to calculate the exposure because the contrast was too high, so I had to decide if I wanted to expose for the pipes in the shadow, try to make an average shot or expose for the pipes hit by the sun. So I've made a bracketing: I made three pictures with a 2 stops overexposure and underexposure. Finally the most I liked was the underexposed one, but I've made some fill light, bright and contrast adjustments.

Here the vertical lines are combined with round shadows to make the picture more impressive and giving power and strength to the image.



Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70-300 mm f/4-5,6
Focal length: 70 mm
Exposure: 1/4000 f/4
ISO 500. No flash, no tripod.


I've seen this sailing ship and got a little bit impressed by its  masts. It was the only ship with three masts in the whole quay and its heigth was considerable and I've used these vertical lines to suggest that idea. So I've used the vertical framing to accentuate this height.

Here I should have used a wider angle to get the shot but I only had the telephoto and 70 mm was the widest angle, so I was limited a little because the mast are cut at the top of the image. I think a 50 mm lens would have worked much better in this case.

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 22 mm
Exposure: 1/400 f/16
ISO 640. No flash, no tripod.

In the picture above I've used these cilindrical structures and the chains as vertical lines to suggest the idea of strength in the picture. If I've chosen a bigger apeture and have taken out of focus the background the picture would have worked better but I was so tired that I didn't pay much attention to it.

Conclusion: 

Horizontal and vertical lines are easy to find in real life, so they are easy to photography. We can use horizontal lines to suggest calm and stability or permanence. Or we can use vertical lines to accentuate the height, give strength and power to a building, a sculpture... Also lines are appropriate to divide the frame into halves, thirds... or to lead the attention towards our subject.  

Exercise: Multiple points

I've used this exercise to get a picture for the assigment 2. I've collected some dry leaves in the park and made a several points composition at home using a black card as background. I've set the white balance to the tungsten bulb option and I've used my kitchen lighting.

I've mounted my camera on the tripod and choosen the macro lens. Then I've started with a single point in the frame and continued adding more until filling the frame. Here are the results: 


         

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Tamron 90 mm Macro f/2,8
Exposure: 10 sec. f/22
ISO 200. No flash. Tripod used.

I think it was one of the most difficult exercises. I don't feel comfortable building the photography by myself. I think I'm used to shooting Nature, city scenes or actions and this challenge has been very interesting because I think it's creation, it's art.

Exercise: The relationship between points

There are many elements to stablish the relationship between points (the distance between them, the size, the lighting, the contrast, the position in the frame, the shape and many other. 

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkon 18-55 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 26 mm
Exposure: 1/250  f/11
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.

In the photography above the main feature to difference the boats is their size. The distance from them to the camera is almost the same and the colours are also similar; but the large boat gets more interest in the picture because it's larger (the difference is huge) than the other one. Due to its size its reflection is also noticeable, while the small boat's reflection can't be seen and this is another reason to lead the attention to the largest one.

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Tamron 90 mm Macro f/2,8
Exposure: 1/250  f/5,6
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.

These flowerpots' size is different like in the boats' picture, but here the main attention is lead to the smaller one because their size is not the main relationship between them. The difference between their size is also smaller than the picture with the boats.
Here their relationship is stablished by their colours or their contrast. The saturation in the flower on the left is higher than the flower on the right. So the contrast between the red flowers and the green leaves makes to pay more attention on this flowerpot. The palid rose flowers and the lighter green leaves of the other one makes it less contrasty.


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Tamron 90 mm Macro f/2,8
Exposure: 1/125  f/5,6
ISO 200. No flash, tripod used.

Here the size, the colours and the contrast of the two flowers are similar. So their relationship is set by their position. In this shot the attention is lead to the right flower because it's facing the camera while we have the side view of the left flower and this makes its shape less impressive than the other. I have to say also that the right flower is focused so the small water drops can be noticed on it, making it more interesting.



Exercise: Positioning a point

I've done this exercise in two ways. First, I've chosen a bear statue as my point and I've taken three pictures positioning my point in three different positions: the middle of the frame, a little bit separated from the centre and close to the edge.

      Camera body: D90
      Lens: Nikkor 18.0-55.0 mm f/3,5-5,6
      Focal length: 55 mm
      Exposure: 1/200  f/11
      No flash, no tripod.

In the first shot I've positioned the bear in an intersection following the rule of thirds. I've decided to put it in the lower right part because I wanted to include in the frame the trees as well as the flowers in the park. The other reason is the direction the bear is looking at. I realized the man in the picture was crossing towards the frame when I was compositing the scene so I`ve waited until he walked between the bear and the tree in the middle to give some dynamic appearance to the picture. 



      Camera body: D90
      Lens: Nikkor 18.0-55.0 mm f/3,5-5,6
      Focal length: 55 mm
      Exposure: 1/200  f/11
      No flash, no tripod.

In this case, I've positioned the bear in the middle of the frame. Now the bear is the main character in the picture but it gives a static sensation to the shot.

 
      Camera body: D90
      Lens: Nikkor 18.0-55.0 mm f/3,5-5,6
      Focal length: 55 mm
      Exposure: 1/200  f/11
      No flash, no tripod.

Here, the bear is next to the right bottom corner. It's close to the edge so the attention is directed to a small part of the frame. I think this position doesn't work very well because our attention is directed to the edge which is a small part of the frame and then there is a huge part of the image in which there is a lack of interest.

In this exercise I've come to a conclusion that positioning a point close to the edge rarely works; positioning a point in the middle of the frame gives a static sensation to the picture but it can work if this is what you are looking for. Finally, I've found very useful positioning a point a little off-centre because it gives a sense of depth to the image.

I also have tried the same exercise but using different subjects as a point in each one. I wanted to try which situations or subjects are good for each position and here are the results:

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Tamron 90 mm Macro f/2,8
Exposure: 1/1000  f/5,6
ISO 200. No flash, no tripod.

Here the point is in the middle of the frame and it works pretty well to give the picture a radial balance so the attention is directed to the centre of the flower. I've used the diagonals drawn by the petals as well as the contrast created between the colors and the selective focusing. So because I wanted to limit the focus to the centre of the image I've used a f/5,6 aperture.

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18.0-55.0 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 55 mm
Exposure: 1/640  f/11
ISO 500. No flash, no tripod.

Here I've chosen the tower of the museum as my point. I've decided to put it a little off-centre to give more dinamism and help the balance in the picture, and leading the eye through the top to the bottom of the tower. This way the horizon is in the lower third
and the sky seems more relevant. 
I think it's the most useful position when composing a photography in most cases.


Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 18.0-55.0 mm f/3,5-5,6
Focal length: 18 mm
Exposure: 1/400  f/16
ISO 640. No flash, no tripod.

Here I've decided to put the open window glass in the left edge but it's obvious that I've failed in my effort to lead the attention towards the glass, because the window cover becomes more interesting than the glass. 







 

Exercise: Object in different positions at the frame

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70.0-300.0 mm f4,0-5,6
Shutter speed:1/800" 
Aperture: f/5,6
ISO 1250

 Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70.0-300.0 mm f4,0-5,6
Shutter speed:1/800" 
Aperture: f/5,6
ISO 1250

 Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70.0-300.0 mm f4,0-5,6
Shutter speed:1/1000" 
Aperture: f/5,6
ISO 1250

 Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70.0-300.0 mm f4,0-5,6
Shutter speed:1/640" 
Aperture: f/5,6
ISO 1250

Camera body: Nikon d90
Lens: Nikkor 70.0-300.0 mm f4,0-5,6
Shutter speed:1/1000" 
Aperture: f/5,6
ISO 1250

For this exercise, I’ve chosen a sheep as the subject. Its white color makes a difference with the green grass, which takes the most part of the image. 

I’ve chosen different compositions, starting with centering the sheep. In my opinion this one doesn’t work very well because it makes it static. The second composition is which I like most, because part of the background can be seen so it helps to place the sheep and balance the composition. In the third picture I followed the rule of thirds, but I prefer the previous one, because this picture is a little boring in my opinion, too much grass.

In the next one, the sheep is on the bottom of the picture, centered. I don’t really disklike it but I don’t feel really comfortable with it neither. And in the last one, the subject is placed in the top left corner of the image, leaving too much space empty.